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According to Li Edelkoort, one of the world's best known trend forecasters, there is an interesting connection between body, lips, and time frame , included by focus and proportion. Many factors come into play when analyzing lipstick
The 20’s - Prohibition and Rebellion
A matte-finished, heart-shaped mouth is the expression of the seductive,
coquettish woman of the Roaring Twenties. Taking their cue from the scornedyet-
sought-after flapper, women go out to dance, drink illicitly distilled whiskey,
and push the envelope of their independence. Black and white movies present
the mouth in daring, feminine shapes--the “cupids bow” style of Clara Bow, the
“vamp’s lips” of Theda Bara, and the sexy “bee-stung” lips of Mae Murray.
Edelkoort notes that because the focal body part of the time period is the legs,
“breasts are smallish, and girls are boyish.” Eyes are large and lips are thin. Lip
colors are black and garnet red.
The 30’s - Economic Depression
A mouth drawn outwards with square edges emphasizes the stern, perfectionist
appearance of the sober 30’s. Women, having witnessed the financial battery of
the Great Depression, are thrifty and austere. Greta Garbo and Marlene
Dietrich— powerful, yet glamorous women who are not afraid to determine their
own fate— are idols of the time. Their steely and androgynous appearance
personifies the adult woman. Lip color is a silky/glossy reddish brown.
The 40’s - Wartime
A full mouth formed with symmetrical curves represents the courageous, selfassured
look of the 40’s despite wartime privations. While men are at war,
women are forced to fill their roles, giving them a newfound sense of identity
and responsibility. The
Hayworth, Joan Crawford, Bette Davis, and Katherine Hepburn encourage the
idea that women are equally as capable in filling roles formerly occupied by
males. Lipstick becomes an instrument of individual morale, symbolizing
strength while disguising sorrow. Lip color is a brilliantly glossy vermillion.
The 50’s - Post-War Period
A voluptuous mouth with the lip line extended beyond the natural shape is
reflective of this period of reconstruction. The look is seductive and feminine,
revealing the ambivalence of women. On one hand, they oppose the traditional
role of women— one they fought to suppress during wartime. On the other
hand, they long to embrace their sexuality and femininity. Consequently, there
are two strongly opposing role models: the voluptuous and feminine Marilyn
Monroe, and the cool and self-confident Audrey Hepburn. Lip colors are bright
red or pink. Edelkoort says that in this period of rebuilding an entire economy,
the focus is on the body, and the face is seen as one whole element in perfect
proportion.
The 60’s – Flower Power and Rebellion
A full, soft pout goes hand in hand with the rebellious habits of hippies in the
sixties. The period is characterized by the exploration of outer space, the sexual
revolution,
of Twiggy and the provocative pout of Brigitte Bardot are symbols of the
rejection of conventional beauty, prosperity, and consumption. Hence, lipstick is
still applied, but discreetly. Lip shape is large and colors are shimmering beigelike
mother-of-pearl, baby pink, and silver/white. Li attributes this to a sudden
shift in sexuality, noting that the most focused-upon body parts are the breasts
and butt.
The 70’s - Disco Rules
An outlined, shiny mouth reflects the shimmering iridescence of the 70's disco
look. Saturday Night Fever, Studio 54, platform shoes, and soulful divas like
Gloria Gaynor and Diana Ross define this decade. Women break social
conventions and explore boundaries. They are not afraid to become single
mothers or fight for their social and political rights, and they are especially
unafraid of their sexuality. Lip colors such as glittering crimson or burgundy red
convey self-confidence.
The 80’s - Emancipation
A dark, wide mouth represents the provocative punk look of the 80’s. Punk, as a
musical statement and a culture, is the first anti-beauty movement. In fashion,
women and men alike play with the idea of reverse gender roles. The
transvestite chic of Boy George and the fashion of Vivienne Westwood convey
“tribal identity”. Influenced by music videos such as Madonna's "Vogue" and
Human League's "Don't You Want Me Baby?” strong eyes and dark lips become
a popular trend. Lip colors are dark to black with metallic effects.
The 90’s - Individualism
A clearly outlined mouth painted in natural colors, either shining or matte,
documents the grunge-turned-pop look of the 90's. Internet, cell phones,
Jam and plaid, piercings, tattoos, hip hop, and the fitness wave set the tone for
this decade socially and commercially. Fashion trends change quickly—
everything is allowed. The introduction of Supermodels— Cindy Crawford,
Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, and Linda Evangelista— permeates
women's idea of beauty. Brown undergoes a revival, but both dark and bright lip
colors are in demand.
2000 - The New Millennium
“Cocooning” is the buzzword for the transition into this new millennium. The
term expresses a longing to return to intrinsic value and friends and family: a
harmony that does not stop at lip fashion. The shape of the mouth is natural.
Soft and warm shades are prominent. Pastels and shimmering shades of beige,
pink, and apricot (so-called non-colors) reflect women's desires to embrace
their natural beauty and the quest for eternal balance and happiness. It’s about
a return to our basic needs, and in a declining economic climate, a new
appreciation for the bare essentials.
The Decades Ahead
So what will the future bring? According to Edelkoort, history will continue to
repeat itself. She predicts that, for now, generous, whitish beige lips will reflect
our nurturing desire to live at a sustainable, slower pace. “Thinner lips will take
us into the 2020’s,” she says. “Eventually, perfect red lips with harmonized
proportions between the eyes, lips, and body will balance our beauty in the new
era of post-recession and reconstruction.”
Source: beautypress
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